Short answer
Chest measure expanded with the blade suppressed, so the chest reads strong without pulling.
Why it happens
Chest prominence beyond the graded size step.
Why ready-to-wear cannot fix it
Size charts grade uniformly; full chest is a personal geometry. A block adjusted in one place pulls in another — which is why the correction must exist in the pattern, not in the fitting-room mirror.
How the house drafts for it
Chest measure expanded with the blade suppressed, so the chest reads strong without pulling. The correction is recorded in your Fit Passport, so every later commission starts from it automatically.
Where it matters most
This correction carries most for: suit, shirt, tuxedo. It is reviewed at every fitting, in every city, for every garment.
Fit Library entry 7 of 48 · Reviewed by Bonturberg Editorial Review · 2026-09-08