Short answer
Shoulder extended and hip suppressed in the draft — proportion rebuilt in the pattern.
Why it happens
Shoulder-to-hip ratio outside the size chart’s assumption.
Why ready-to-wear cannot fix it
Size charts grade uniformly; narrow shoulders, wide hips is a personal geometry. A block adjusted in one place pulls in another — which is why the correction must exist in the pattern, not in the fitting-room mirror.
How the house drafts for it
Shoulder extended and hip suppressed in the draft — proportion rebuilt in the pattern. The correction is recorded in your Fit Passport, so every later commission starts from it automatically.
Where it matters most
This correction carries most for: suit, blazer. It is reviewed at every fitting, in every city, for every garment.
Fit Library entry 27 of 48 · Reviewed by Bonturberg Editorial Review · 2026-09-08