BONTURBERGTHE TRAVELLING TAILORING HOUSE
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FIT LIBRARY · POSTURE

Restricted shoulder mobility,
drafted properly.

Reaching strains the jacket shoulder and pulls the lapels.

Short answer

Armhole lowered slightly and sleeve pitch opened for reach — movement first, line second.

Why it happens

Range of motion tighter than a standard armhole assumes.

Why ready-to-wear cannot fix it

Size charts grade uniformly; restricted shoulder mobility is a personal geometry. A block adjusted in one place pulls in another — which is why the correction must exist in the pattern, not in the fitting-room mirror.

How the house drafts for it

Armhole lowered slightly and sleeve pitch opened for reach — movement first, line second. The correction is recorded in your Fit Passport, so every later commission starts from it automatically.

Where it matters most

This correction carries most for: suit, blazer, overcoat. It is reviewed at every fitting, in every city, for every garment.

Fit Library entry 40 of 48 · Reviewed by Bonturberg Editorial Review · 2026-09-08