Short answer
Flatter shoulder drafting with reduced padding, sleeve pitch rotated forward.
Why it happens
Shoulder angle flatter than the block; commercial padding sits proud.
Why ready-to-wear cannot fix it
Size charts grade uniformly; square shoulders is a personal geometry. A block adjusted in one place pulls in another — which is why the correction must exist in the pattern, not in the fitting-room mirror.
How the house drafts for it
Flatter shoulder drafting with reduced padding, sleeve pitch rotated forward. The correction is recorded in your Fit Passport, so every later commission starts from it automatically.
Where it matters most
This correction carries most for: suit, blazer, tuxedo. It is reviewed at every fitting, in every city, for every garment.
Fit Library entry 2 of 48 · Reviewed by Bonturberg Editorial Review · 2026-09-08