THE LIBRARY
Cloths & terms,
explained.
The reference the house uses at every fitting — now open to you. Each entry is short, dated and honest.
Cloths
Fresco
An open, breathable plain weave with a dry handle that refuses to shine — the crispest answer to…
Read ↗Summer · 230–260 g/m²Tropical wool
Light plain-weave worsted, crisply cool and quietly formal; creases less than linen ever will.…
Read ↗Four-season · 260–300 g/m²High-twist wool
Springy, tightly twisted yarns that shrug off creasing — the travelling tailor’s default for ser…
Read ↗Four-season · 270–310 g/m²Four-season twill
The workhorse diagonal: drapes cleanly, tailors precisely and forgives long days.…
Read ↗Winter · 300–380 g/m²Flannel
Brushed for a soft, mat surface with real warmth and deep, quiet colour.…
Read ↗Autumn / Winter · 280–340 g/m²Herringbone
The broken diagonal that brings pattern without noise — texture you can read across a room.…
Read ↗Winter · 340–420 g/m²Tweed
Heritage woolen cloth with wind in mind; every cloth has a landscape in it.…
Read ↗Summer · 220–280 g/m²Linen
Creases beautifully and unapologetically — the honest choice for the hottest weeks.…
Read ↗Summer · 240–280 g/m²Wool–linen blend
Keeps linen’s breath, loses its chaos; the Riviera compromise that actually works.…
Read ↗Summer evenings · 240–290 g/m²Silk–wool blend
A subtle sheen with wool’s discipline — evening cloth that survives sea air.…
Read ↗Winter · 320–400 g/m²Cashmere
The softest warmth in the books; light on the shoulder, serious against the wind.…
Read ↗Winter · 320–380 g/m²Wool–cashmere blend
Cashmere’s hand with wool’s resilience — the pragmatic luxury for everyday winter coats.…
Read ↗Deep winter · 400–500 g/m²Double-faced wool
Two cloths bonded as one: no lining needed, warmth without weight, edges that finish beautifully…
Read ↗Three-season · 280–330 g/m²hopsack
A coarse, open plain weave for blazers — breathable, durable, and forgiving of casual handling.…
Read ↗Four-season · 260–300 g/m²Sharkskin
Two-tone gleam from contrasting yarns — reads sharp under evening light.…
Read ↗Winter · 340–400 g/m²Cavalry twill
A bold, double-milled diagonal built for hard wear; the country weekend in cloth form.…
Read ↗Winter · 340–380 g/m²Doeskin
A fine, warm worsted with a soft nap — uniform cloth by heritage, refined by weight.…
Read ↗Four-season · 260–300 g/m²Barathea
A subtle pebbled texture that resists shine — the traditional black-tie ground.…
Read ↗Four-season · 250–290 g/m²Mohair blend
A lustre and spring that keep a suit looking pressed on its tenth hour.…
Read ↗Four-season · 270–310 g/m²Serge
The classic tight diagonal — serviceable, dignified, nearly immortal.…
Read ↗All year (shirts) · —Poplin
Crisp, smooth and quietly formal; the boardroom shirt’s ground weave.…
Read ↗All year (shirts) · —Oxford
A heavier, textured cotton that reads relaxed and survives casual washing.…
Read ↗All year (shirts) · —Royal Oxford
Shiny, fine and textured — the shirt that dresses a blazer up a whole setting.…
Read ↗Summer · 230–260 g/m²Zephyr
A whisper-light woolen with air in the weave for the hottest city weeks.…
Read ↗Deep winter · 380–450 g/m²Loden
Alpine milled wool that shrugs off rain and wind — Bavaria’s answer to weather.…
Read ↗Deep winter · 380–460 g/m²Melton
Dense, milled and windproof with a smooth face — the classic coat cloth.…
Read ↗Three-season · 260–300 g/m²Gabardine
A tight, steep twill with a clean, slightly shiny face — sharp and hard-wearing.…
Read ↗Summer · 250–290 g/m²Wool–silk–linen
The great three-fibre blend: linen’s air, silk’s hand, wool’s memory.…
Read ↗High summer · —Seersucker
The puckered weave that keeps cloth off the skin — a Riviera lunch classic.…
Read ↗Summer (shirts) · —Chambray
A light, even cotton with just enough texture to read relaxed under tailoring.…
Read ↗Winter · 310–350 g/m²Flannel check
The winter check in brushed worsted — pattern with a whisper, not a shout.…
Read ↗Four-season · 270–320 g/m²Glen check
The Prince-of-Wales family of checks: business-compatible pattern with heritage.…
Read ↗Four-season · 270–310 g/m²Pinstripe
The banker’s signal, best worn quietly — one stripe, perfect spacing, deep ground.…
Read ↗Autumn / Winter · 290–330 g/m²Chalk stripe
A softer, broken stripe drawn in chalk — bolder than pinstripe, made for flannel.…
Read ↗Autumn · —Wool jersey
Knitted wool with stretch and ease — the comfort answer inside tailored lines.…
Read ↗Evening · —Velvet
Evening opulence with a nap that drinks the light; cotton velvet wears hardest.…
Read ↗Winter · 300–360 g/m²Alpaca blend
A silky lustre and deep warmth from alpaca fibre blended into wool.…
Read ↗Winter · —Vicuña blend
The rarest fibre in the books — impossibly light warmth, reserved for the Prestige tier.…
Read ↗Winter · —Corduroy
The ribbed classic; fine wales read tailored, wide wales read weekend.…
Read ↗Autumn · —Moleskin
Dense napped cotton with a suede hand — the writer’s companion cloth.…
Read ↗Four-season · 250–290 g/m²Wool crepe
A dry, pebbled surface with beautiful drape — the womenswear favourite.…
Read ↗All year · —Crepe de chine
A matte, fluid silk for linings and blouses that move like water.…
Read ↗Occasion · —Dupion silk
Crisp slubbed silk with a formal rustle — occasion dresses and evening linings.…
Read ↗Occasion · —Mikado
A structured silk-nylon blend that holds architectural shapes beautifully.…
Read ↗Occasion · —Faille
A ribbed silk with quiet structure — the tailleur’s evening answer.…
Read ↗Winter · 320–380 g/m²Saxony
A soft, deeply milled woolen with a downy hand — winter comfort in a jacket.…
Read ↗Autumn / Winter · 320–380 g/m²Donegal
Irish tweed flecked with colour spots — character without loudness.…
Read ↗Four-season · 270–310 g/m²Birdseye
A tight dotted weave that resists shine — the quiet texture for business suits.…
Read ↗Tailoring terms
Canvas construction
The interior layer of a jacket that gives it chest and shape. More canvas means structure that i…
Read ↗ConstructionFull canvas
Canvas running the entire jacket front, sewn — not glued — between cloth and lining. The slow wa…
Read ↗ConstructionHalf canvas
Canvas through the chest and lapels only: structure where it matters, lightness and cost where i…
Read ↗ConstructionUnlined jacket
No interior lining; seams are finished visible or bound. Cooler, lighter and packable — the trav…
Read ↗ConstructionFloating canvas
A canvas layer stitched in but not fused, allowed to move and mould to the wearer over years. Th…
Read ↗ConstructionFused jacket
A glued interlining. Faster and cheaper, but the chest can bubble where fusing separates from cl…
Read ↗DetailsPatch pocket
A pocket sewn onto the outside of the garment. Casual by intention, and the correct choice on sp…
Read ↗DetailsWelt pocket
A pocket set flush into the garment through a slit — the formal, clean-faced option for suits an…
Read ↗DetailsTicket pocket
A small pocket above the main hip pocket, a legacy of railway tickets. Worn today as a quiet sig…
Read ↗DetailsSurgeon’s cuff
Functioning buttoned cuffs, a heritage of surgeons who rolled and worked. On bespoke, they actua…
Read ↗StructureLapel
The folded front of the jacket below the collar. Notch for daywear, peak for assertion, shawl fo…
Read ↗StructureNotch lapel
A lapel with a small notch where collar meets lapel — the standard of business tailoring, correc…
Read ↗StructurePeak lapel
Points rising toward the shoulder. More assertive than notch; the house cuts peaks on double-bre…
Read ↗StructureShawl collar
A continuous rounded collar without notch or peak — the dinner jacket’s elegant line.…
Read ↗StructureGorge
The seam where collar meets lapel. Height and width of the gorge change the whole character of a…
Read ↗StructureShoulder
Where tailoring is won: slope, construction and padding tuned to how you are actually built. The…
Read ↗StructureNeapolitan shoulder
A soft, lightly built shoulder, often with a shirred sleeve head — relaxed Mediterranean tailori…
Read ↗StructureRope shoulder
A structured shoulder with a slight ridged sleeve head — the British informed line.…
Read ↗StructureSleeve head
The slight fullness where sleeve meets shoulder, shaped by wadding. A marker of handwork.…
Read ↗ProportionButton stance
Where the jacket’s closure sits on the body. Raised lengthens the leg line; the fitting sets it …
Read ↗DetailsWorking buttonhole
A lapel buttonhole that actually works — so a flower, a poppy or nothing at all, by choice.…
Read ↗DetailsMilanese buttonhole
A hand-made buttonhole with a raised gimp edge, worked on the lapel as a quiet flex of craft.…
Read ↗DetailsPick stitching
A narrow, spaced seam stitch along lapel edges. Understated when tone-on-tone; loud when contras…
Read ↗StructureVent — side
Twin vents at the jacket’s hips, the British default: clean drape when seated and hands in pocke…
Read ↗StructureVent — centre
A single back vent, the American tradition; neat on slim frames.…
Read ↗StructureVent — none
The ventless Italian cut: cleanest line, tightest sit — cut with care so sitting doesn’t pull.…
Read ↗TrousersRise
The vertical distance from the front waistband to the front crotch seam. Correct rise is why bes…
Read ↗TrousersBreak
How the trouser meets the shoe: none, slight, half or full. Set for your proportion and the shoe…
Read ↗TrousersCuff (trouser)
A turned-up hem that adds weight and finish to the drape. Optional, decided by cloth and line.…
Read ↗TrousersSide adjusters
Buckles at the waist replacing belt loops — the cleaner line for tailored trousers.…
Read ↗TrousersBraces
Suspenders, worn with side adjusters and no belt: the house’s preferred suspension for tailored …
Read ↗ShirtsCollar band
The strip of shirt collar that wraps the neck. Its height is engineered at the fitting for one-f…
Read ↗ShirtsCollar spread
The angle between collar points. Wider spread flatters longer faces and bigger knots; the fittin…
Read ↗ShirtsFused collar
A glued collar interlining — crisp until it isn’t. Bespoke shirts use sewn interlinings that rol…
Read ↗ShirtsSleeve length
Set to end exactly at the wrist bone with the arm relaxed — the measurement most ready-to-wear g…
Read ↗ShirtsYoke
The panel across the shoulders. Split yokes help pattern matching; the fit across them decides s…
Read ↗ShirtsPlacket
The reinforced strip holding the buttonholes. French plackets omit it for a cleaner front.…
Read ↗DetailsMonogram
Initials or a date embroidered where you choose — under the collar, on the pocket, hidden inside…
Read ↗The houseFit Passport
The house’s memory of you: pattern, measurements, posture notes, cloth history and preferences —…
Read ↗The houseCity window
The few days a year the tailor is in your city. Appointments are booked in enquiry order; return…
Read ↗The houseTrunk show
A multi-day visit where the tailor sets up a private fitting room in one city — the historical n…
Read ↗The houseWritten quotation
The document that confirms cloth, schedule, taxes and delivery for your city before any payment.…
Read ↗PricingBalance
The remainder due after the deposit, scheduled in your order confirmation before crafting begins…
Read ↗PricingGuide price
The European planning figures are €420 / €550 / €770 by commission tier. A written quotation con…
Read ↗PricingDeposit
The payment that confirms your slot and reserves cloth. Its terms are stated in your written ord…
Read ↗MaterialsTrim
The auxiliary materials — canvas, haircloth, linings, buttons, thread — that make or break how a…
Read ↗CraftBasting
The temporary hand stitches that hold a garment together for fitting and shaping — removed as th…
Read ↗CraftFuller measure
The bespoke fitting where the cutter records measurements and posture observations, then drafts …
Read ↗YOUR PRIVATE FITTING
Bring questions to a real fitting
A personal consultation. No obligation. Appointments are confirmed individually.